Underside couching is a stitch that is rarely used today as we have other techniques and materials to create the same effects. However, in its day, it was a very versatile way of covering a fabric by hand with embroidery, and still allowing for movement in the cloth.
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Using painted Aida and thick threads, it was relatively easy to create some of the medieval patterns, stitching on a fabric with a regular weave. The top sample is brick pattern, with vertical zigzag on the left and horizontal diamonds on the right.
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I stitched this sample on fine net, counting the holes. It was much more challenging but I used a thick knitted yarn, just helped tremendously. I reversed the fabric so that the underside of the stitching could also be displayed.
After these practice pieces, I confidently started the sample based on the Virgin from the Syon Cope shown on page 12. An interesting experience which really made me appreciate the skills of the medieval embroiderers.
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Moving on to cable stitch on the machine, I kept altering the top and bottom tensions to see what effects could be produced. In this sample I used my whipstitch bobbin with a top tension of 7. The top line is an automatic stitch (M2/73 and M2/33). The zigzag line was set at W7/L5.
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This sample consist of 5 rings, based on coral polyps.
In outer ring 1, I have used a triple needle, with normal bobbin and straight stitch, top tension 9.
Ring 2, I have used a triple needle, no bobbin tension and straight stitch, TT 9.
Ring 3, change of thread, triple needle, no bobbin tension, zigzag W5/L2, TT 9.
Ring 4, change of thread, triple needle, normal bobbin tension, automatic stitch (M2/33), TT 5.
Ring 5, change of thread, single needle, whipstitch bobbin, zigzag W7/L2.
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This sample was made with a top tension of 8 and no bobbin tension, using a knitted gold thread.
Personally I prefer underside couching to machine cable stitch, perhaps because I like to see the patterns as they emerge, rather than hoping for the best and waiting until the fabric is turned over. I would certainly like to experiment more with underside couching and am developing ideas for the metallic PAP.
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| Presentation Sheet 3 |
